Day 1 / 15: Kathmandu to Machakhola¶
We start the first leg of out hike, by taking a 12 hours bus ride filled with unexpected adventure.
Date: 10 May 2025
Previous: Permits and Thamel
Leaving Kathmandu¶
The morning was a rush. I woke up at 4:30 only to find Niranjan already packed and almost ready. I rushed to get my stuff in order.
We were done with packing and things by 5 am and we promptly exited the hotel. The was didn't leave until later but we were afraid that we might have to walk to the bus-stand if we didn't get any cabs. So with this buffer in mind, we started rushing.
Fortunately we found a cab and we were at the bus stand with a lot of time to spare. The spare time was needed because now we needed to locate out guide; Mr Jangbu.
What followed was a wild goose chase as both the parties kept looking for each other and kept missing each other repeatedly. One of us managed to locate the bus and after that we assembled next to the bus. Then we called Jangbu and he showed up next to the bus in about a minute. He is a very very sweet person. Jangbu informed us that bus did have our seats reserved, which was a relief.
My impressions of the bus-stand and facilities. The bus-stand is new and spacious. It is surprisingly clean and the facilities are decent. Not top-notch, but definitely clean and useable.
This is the famous bus on which we were going to spend about 10 hours.
I also managed so snag a photo with Shyam quickly before we started the bus-journey. I am the one wearing shorts.
The Bus Ride¶
The bus started soonly and what followed was 2 hours of driving in the city and adjacent quarters. I kept looking outside the window looking at the city pass by like a small child. New scenery, new buildings and mountains in the distant-horizon.
The bus stopped for breakfast just outside Kathmandu. The place where we stopped was a dedicated rest-point for busses. It was on the side of a hill. We could see a vast tea-plantation (maybe ? im not too sure) on one side of the hotel. Me and Niranjan shared a mix of wai-wai and noodles, followed by an ice cream. I was very anxious about getting motion-sickness on the journey, but the open windows really did help in controlling the sickness. All of this cost us 140 rupees.
A photo of the landscape from the breakfast spot.
The bus continued to drive on. The roads became progressively worse. I was surprised with the skill of the driver who was able to drive the bus is such bad conditions. The roads were rough and dusty. There was a lot of dust. At around 12 noon, after 5 hours of riding in the bus, we stopped for lunch. This was the beginning of our dal-bhat lunches. This meal cost us 250 rupees. The lunch place was a large restaurant kinda thingy run by a family. The kids were playing in the backyard where the restrooms and the wash-basins were.
Here is a photo of the backyard
Here is a photo of the lunch. note: I should really spend more time taking photos because I like documenting my trips.
This was a typical dal-bhat set. The dal was a bit watery; however the food was delicious and filling.
So far, Everything was looking normal and we were supposed to reach our destination by 1700 hrs, however the universe had other plans.
Delays and Road Conditions¶
About an hour after lunch, we heard a sound that can only be associated with a tyre puncture. This was just before the Arughat Bazar which used to be old trailhead for the Manaslu Circuit. Since there were no shops around, the bus kept moving and stopped at a tyre store nearby. It is here that we took about 30 mins to change the tyre. Once this was done, we assumed that the adventure was over, however, much to our surprise things were just getting started.
What followed was 2 hours of driving in some of the most horrid road conditions that I have ever come across. The bus would often lean from side to side which would cause us a lot of distress.
We reached the destination at 1900. 2 hours after the scheduled arrival.
Arriving in Machakhola¶
As soon as we got off the bus, we could see the village from the road.
it is into that valley that we start walking into.
Our guide took us to a hotel and showed us our rooms. The rooms are cozy and sufficient. I came across a bunch of foreign tourists who were filtering the tap water. I decided that I will bring out the filter tomorrow. I was sorted for the night.
Behold our room
We had dinner which was quite expensive for dalhbhat at rupees 700 per plate. I also tasted the local liquor (rakshi) for 100. It was warm and potent. Somewhere in the middle of having dinner, the power went out and now we're fully reliant on solar lamps. It also rained heavily for 30 mins or so.
Diary Note¶
I wrote in my diary. Note that at this point I have no idea that my further plans of walking the Annapurna Circuit wont happen because of early monsoon.
The weather doesn't look nice this time around. Im worried for my further plans. I hope that the monsoon doesn't arrive early this year. My best case plans ended by June 14th, but as it stands now, I might have wrap up early.
Our phones are not getting charged today.
Im at 24% and this is 21:47. Good night.